Enjoy the charms of a bustling city rich in cultural, religious and artistic treasures

Let’s get one thing straight, Kathmandu is not a city for the faint-hearted.

It is a sprawling, bustling hive of activity that assaults the senses with a barrage of sights, sounds and smells.

So if you are looking for a holiday where you can sit back as waiters ferry back and forth with cocktails then turn the page and have a crack at the crossword.

However, if you are looking for a bit of adventure then read on. Nestling in the Kathmandu Valley, the city, the capital of Nepal, is steeped in tradition and religion, predominantly Hinduism and Buddhism.

And it is simple to get there as Flydubai now runs flights four times a week with a flight time of around four hours. There are plenty of places to stay, from cheap hotels for a few dollars a night to five-star, such as the Hyatt Regency.

The city is an intoxicating place and envelops you from the moment you step off the plane. The airport resembles a 1970s-built British comprehensive school and in truth, it is about as well equipped.

Then as you step outside, you are greeted by a horde of taxi drivers touting for business. The taxi rank resembles a scrapyard with all sorts of battered and bruised cars lining up and waiting for a fare.

It is a fascinating introduction to the city, and sets you up well for what is to follow.

Although Kathmandu can be scruffy, bordering on filthy in places, the chaos that engulfs the streets of the city has a certain charm. It appears to have missed out on the 20th century entirely, and is now trying to go straight from the 19th to the 21st.

Very densely populated - 13,225 people per square kilometre - the city is made up of block after block of crammed in, multi-storey tenement buildings.

If you want to explore then it is definitely best to avoid the roads - you will spend virtually all your time in traffic jams.

Instead, explore on foot whenever possible. Delving into the city’s backstreets is the real pleasure of Kathmandu, as the remarkable cultural and artistic heritage of this city comes to life in front of your eyes.

As you stroll from tiny square to tiny square you stumble across beautiful hidden temples and courtyards full of life as people sit in groups preparing meals, washing clothes or simply swapping gossip.

The country has faced a lot of political turmoil in recent years, but this has not dampened its appetite for tourists - the locals are generally very welcoming.

Do, though, ask before shoving a camera in their face no matter how fascinating their little slice of life might seem.

Among the must-visit locations is the Boudhanath Stupa, a World Heritage Site, where tourists, locals, pilgrims and monks mix in equal quantities. It is the largest stupa in Nepal and the holiest Tibetan Buddhist temple outside Tibet.

Surrounded by prayer wheels and adorned with colourful bunting, it is a stark contrast to the surrounding area.

Another must-see venue is Durbar Square, once the centre of Kathmandu and also a World Heritage Site.

But don’t expect a stuffy museum, the access to the temples is remarkable - no ropes, poles or stewards keeping you at arms length. The square is a bustling, living museum, with people going about their business and religious ceremonies taking place amid some stunning temples.

Although the country is now a Republic, the square was once the seat of the Nepalese Royalty. It is peppered with temples dedicated to different Hindu gods and goddesses, with most of these beautiful buildings dating back from the 15th to 18th centuries. Just climb up the steps of one of these temples, take a seat and watch as the square buzzes with life.

Durbar Square is how most people would picture Kathmandu, and is a welcome break from the crowded roads. It is also a magnet for people looking to make a buck out of tourists with various trinkets, so be prepared to say ‘no, thank you’ two dozen times to the same man trying to sell you an antique flute that was made last Wednesday.

After a day’s exploration, many people head for Thamel, the tourist hub of the city where you’ll find a throng of souvenir shops, restaurants, bars and cafes.

Among the most well-known is Rumdoodle, a haven for mountain climbers who have literally left their mark by autographing the hundreds of paper footprints that adorn the walls.

If you have time, it is also well worth escaping to the countryside outside Kathmandu.

The ancient city of Bhaktapur is only 20km east and also has a wide variety of temples and beautiful squares. But with no motors allowed in the city limits, it’s well worth a wander.  

Nepal is an incredibly diverse country due to its location and variation in altitude - from 60m above sea level to the highest point on Earth, Mount Everest at 8,848m. Capital city Kathmandu itself lies at 1,324m.

The surrounding countryside is stunning, with kilometre after kilometre of green fields rolling up into the foothills of the snow-capped Himalayas. It is a stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of the city and well worth exploring.

How to get there

Flydubai runs flights to Kathmandu from Dubai International Airport Terminal 2 on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday, leaving at 7am. Fares start from dhs350 one way.

For more details on flights visit flydubai.com or call 04 301 0800.

For more information on the Hyatt Regency Kathmandu visit www.kathmandu.regency.hyatt.com or call 00 977 1 449 1234.

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Two ways to enjoy the high life in Nepal

If roughing it is not your thing then you might want to book into The Hyatt Regency during your stay in Kathmandu.

The elegant hotel is set in 15 hectares of landscaped grounds and has 280 well-equipped rooms. It is situated about 10km from the city centre, just 4km from Tribhuvan International Airport, and overlooks the Boudhanath Stupa.

And there is plenty to keep you busy inside the hotel as it has an extensive spa, tennis courts and jogging track. If jogging sounds too energetic then sit back in one of the hotel’s bars and restaurants and enjoy a drink while looking out at stunning, panoramic views of the city and the mountains.

A trip to Nepal would not be complete without taking the opportunity to look at Mount Everest - the highest point on the planet.

One of the best ways of doing this is to climb... aboard one of the mountain flights.

The one-hour flight takes you over some of the highest peaks in the world, including Everest. Everyone is guaranteed a window seat and the views, starting with Kathmandu from the air and then on to the mountains, are spectacular.

The flights are offered by several airlines, including Buddha Air, and usually take place early in the morning, leaving from the domestic airport.

For more information visit www.welcomenepal.com.

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Weekend wonders

Tilal Liwa, UAE

While we all might like to stretch the truth a little about our lives out here in the UAE to family and friends, the truth is that city living in modern Dubai is not all that exotic.

Rarely do we get the chance to explore the vast expanses of the desert which surrounds us.

A trip out to the recently opened Tilal Liwa hotel in the Western region can change all that though, and you’ll be staying in the lap of luxury. Around 180km from Abu Dhabi, it’s a good four-hour drive from Dubai to this hidden gem which sits on the outskirts of the Rub Al Khali, or Empty Quarter.

Once there, you realise just how isolated you can be - even on the very outskirts of a vast desert which stretches into Saudi Arabia, Oman and Yemen.

Apart from camels at a nearby race track, and the millions of flies that go with our hump-backed friends, there’s little for company outside the hotel.

That’s not necessarily a problem as the compact hotel has a lovely, relaxed atmosphere. It would be hard to find a more romantic place in the whole of the UAE than the infinity pool, which looks onto the Empty Quarter itself.

Be warned though, the hotel is still in the process of securing an alcohol licence so plan accordingly as there is little hope of a walk to a nearby premises!

A lemon juice was not quite the refreshing drink we had hoped for after a four-hour drive but if you’re looking for a relaxing weekend, this could be the place for you.

Call  02 894 6111 for details, or email reservations@tilalliwahotel.ae